From Boat, Bus and Boot to the Road Ahead...by car!

Hola!
 Sorry we haven't posted in a while. We have been extrodinarily busy with all the surfing, eating, sleeping and beach loungin' these past few days. Mal Pais is truely an extrodinary place and although we endured another painful travel day to get there, it was all worth it. The town is primarily filled with surfers from all over the world who were sucked into the less crowded but beautiful surf spots that line its coast. We woke up every morning early enough to double check the clock and make sure that we weren't dreaming (ever since Mastatal we've been waking up weirdly early for us post-college bums), which allowed Grant to catch some tasty waves. Tawsh rented a board and returned it because the waves turned out to be a little too big while we were there. Instead, she borrowed a boogie board from our hotel. But, she still shredded the gnar with Grant one afternoon, when we traded boards every few waves.

Tawsh big chillen'

Enjoying the sunset in Mal Pais.

G$, big chillin in the hammock 

 Leaving Mal Pais, we once again endured another 8 hour travel day. We were lucky though because we caught a bus that went directly from Mal Pais to San Jose, which made the shlep a bit easier. We were heading back to San Jose to check into a timeshare condo for a week (a generous gift from the Meirs!). The night before, we reserved a rent-a-car at Avis which we were going to pick up after we got off the bus. When we finally disembarked we found ourselves at the same location we began the trip (and where we'll be heading back to again, oh so soon)...outside the airport. Ok. So how do we get to Avis? As luck would have it an Avis shuttle drove by just as we were hailing a taxi. He pulled over and took us to the Avis office, even though we weren't on "the list". Phew! This was all working out so smoothly.

 We get there and after talking to the guy for a short period of time, we find out that our reservations never went through, and they don't have a suitable car for us. Oh man, what were we going to do now? Just like that, as quickly as it took you to read those last few sentences, our day's smooth journey started getting bumpy. We could either take a taxi to another rental car establishment, or go find an internet cafe and make some phonecalls in hopes of finding the car we wanted. It turns out that while we were contemplating all this, the guy at Avis was calling other companies looking for the car we wanted (automatic mid-size 4x4), for the amount of time we wanted (1 week). In no time at all, he found us the one we wanted, and not only that, he was going to drive us back to the airport to meet the other company. What a generous guy! We really felt lucky at this point; things were back on track as quickly as they had been derailed. Well, that's when it all started to get a little bit strange.

 When we get back to the airport, riding in style in the well advertised Avis shuttle, the guy from the other car company is waiting for us in an unmakred regular looking car. Our luggage and our bodies move from one car to the other and off we go. The first thing he tells us is that we need to stop for gas, switch cars, and then we'll head to the store front. On our way there he hands us his business card for "SAFE CAR RENTALS". We get to the gas station and after he fills up, we hop out of the car and load our luggage into another parked car. Our man trades keys with a couple of other ticos, a big wad of bills changes hands, and now, with our stomachs in our throats we get into the new car and go to our supposed destination. By this point, there had been enough questionable activity to make us 100% nervous: moving from the high key, well recognized Avis shuttle to the plain looking car; the "self-employed travel agent" look of the business card; the exchange of a big sum of cash; and of course, the shady car switch. We drove for what felt like a long twenty minutes until arriving at a small barrio that had no signs of tourist activity. We began turning corners and once again, we felt funny not having seen a single sign for "Safe Car Rentals" this whole time. We finally turn down a small dead-end street, headed for a compound/fortress. This moment is right about when we both thought we were going to be kidnapped. Luckily, we pulled into a parking lot lined with about 5 cars, with plenty more down another driveway, and a small "store-looking" house. Strangely enough, we realized that the only thing that made us feel more comfortable was the Visa/Mastercard stickers in the windows, and the family portraits in the friendly office that we were led into. We began talking to the guy and worked out a deal to rent the exact car type we wanted. We are now equipped with a small, white, automatic KIA 4x4 (and its really quite nice!). We were relieved to drive away from the situation feeling great about our car and happy that we supported a small, local business.

OUR CAR!!! 

However, driving in this city is a whole nother story. First of all, it doesnt help that there are no rules whatsoever. People are constantly honking their horns (sometimes at nothing too!) and pedestrians just walk through the streets without paying any attention to the drivers. Not only that, add in the dare-devil motorcyclists and crazy taxi drivers (that all know each other and stop at random times to chat through their windows) and you really feel like you are...

 Tash: Grant, how would you describe driving in San Jose?

Grant: It's like trying to make a sphere out of water using ONLY your hands

Tash: As opposed to what?

Grant: As opposed to using some sphere making device.


So, there's driving in San Jose in a nutshell. It truly feels as though all our years of training, driving in L.A. rush hour were just barely sufficient to prep us for this experience. But, we wouldn't have it any other way. For the next week, we'll be jetting around the areas nearby San Jose to check out some of the spots that we wouldn't have gotten to otherwise. In our down time these last few days (as though we have any shortage!) we've been thumbing through all the guidebooks we can get our hands on, writing down ideas for day trips. 

We decided to plan our first day trip south of San Jose to two different locations. We chose to go to botanical gardens and then visit some hot springs in the afternoon. Using a map given to us with our rental (a far stretch from the GPS/navigation/online mapping tools we've become accustomed to in the States), we set off. But let it be noted, this map merely highlighted where every Best Western in San Jose is, giving only the most bare-boned sketch of the surrounding city streets and freeways. Although the driving made us nervous, we were able to stay calm because of our thoroughly flawless...not...cartography skills. We quickly figured out that the tourist map we were using was not "detailed" enough (although I don't know how detailed a map can get of a country that doesn't really have any street names) so we decided to stop and get a new map and make sure we were on the right track. Somehow, we were already on the right road, and we ended up at the Lankester Botanical Gardens in no time.

 The Lankester Botanical Gardens, run by the University of Costa Rica, is an absolute gem. There is a path that snakes around the property bringing you to eight different gardens. We enjoyed strolling through the gardens, in awe of the fabulous plant life Costa Rica has to offer: ferms, heliconias, bamboo, palms and epiphytes to name a few. Of the eight sections, one is a peaceful Japanese garden and another is one of the largest studied collections of orchids in Costa Rica (with over 18,000 orchids from around the world!). Though they house such a vast array of orchid species, orchids bloom at all different times of the year, so the selection of flowers each visitor chances upon is dependent upon the season in which they visit. The less consistently changing Japanese gardens, with a wooden zig-zagging bridge, countless stones, and over 40 species of bamboo, makes for a relaxing and entrancing visit any time of the year. We spent some time relaxing in the Japanese gardens, enjoying the peace and quiet. All in all, walking through the botanical garden's numerous different zones, we were thoroughly impressed and enamored.

Inside one of the orchid greenhouses!

 After perusing the garden for a couple of hours, the next stop on our list was the natural hot springs of Orosi. Only a stone's throw away from Cartago (the city where the garden's reside) we hopped back into the coche and enjoyed a scenic ride down into the valley. Based on what we read in our trusty travel guide, we were excited for a lovely afternoon of bathing in a scenic hot water paradise while sipping on Pina Coladas. When we arrived in Orosi, we enjoyed a quick lunch of black bean soup and arroz con pollo, did some bird watching from the restaurant patio, and then headed up the road to one of the two baths.

 We walked through the small entrance into a large outdoor room with 30 empty tables and a long bar that lined it's far wall. We tried to scope out the springs but all we saw were two large swimming pools filled with children. We were both thinking that serene springs were nestled somewhere more relaxing, so we paid the $3 to go inside. We quickly changed and soon learned that the relaxing hot springs we dreamed of didnt't actually exist; the two pools we saw in the beginning were our only options. Suited and ready to go, we got into one (expecting at least a little warmth). But, as it turns out, they were thoroughly luke warm. It was that kind of medium temperature that makes your body feel uncomfortable. We finally found a little hole in which "hot" water from the thermal springs would slowly leak into the pool (only to dissipate in its large size) and remained glued to that location. We stayed in for about half an hour but definitely could not relax due to the temperature and the incessant children jumping in and out of the pool.

Tawsh in the corner of the "hot spring" 

 Needless to say, we left feeling a little dissapointed but with that kind of ironic amusement that accompanies a poorly delivered joke (Grant's specialty!). But, in no time at all, our frowns were turned upside down when we found a quaint little coffee shop on the corner down the street. We got our afternoon fix, played a good round of cards, and even came away from the place with a free book! Like many hostels and coffee shops in Costa Rica, this joint had an book exchange, but when we were there, we were bookless. Kindly, the owner offerred to give Grant The Picture of Dorian Gray, on the condition that he'd "pay it forward". Thank you sweet book owner, he shall!

Looking down at the Orosi Valley

 We arrived home before dark and attempted to make Gallos Pintos (a traditional Costa Rican rice and beans dish). We failed and settled with a big warm plate of pasta and a cold beer. What a way to end the day. Our trip is gradually coming to an end but the car and the house have invited more adventure and exploration than we could have imagined (plus a lot more room for funny stories). So you will be hearing from us again soon.

 XOXO
 Tawsh and Grant

PS Scarlet Macaw SIGHTING CONFIRMED! More to come later!